All-Bean Chili

2 cups black, red kidney, or other beans, sorted and soaked
2-3 dried dark Mexican chili peppers - any combination of ancho (mildest), guajillo (mild to medium), pasilla (mild to medium)
4 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
3 onions, finely diced
3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt plus more as needed
4 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon red chipotle powder
2-3 tablespoons ancho chili pepper, ground
2 cups canned diced tomatoes, juice reserved
¼ cup chopped cilantro

Drain beans. Place drained beans in soup pot, cover with fresh water by 4 inches, and boil for 5 to 10 minutes.
Remove surface scum. Lower heat and simmer, partially covered.
Meanwhile, reconstitute dried peppers by soaking in hot water 20-30 minutes. After soaking, remove seeds and stringy sections. Chop peppers and set aside. Reserve soaking liquid.
Toast cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat. When they turn fragrant, add oregano, shaking pan so that herbs don't burn, for about 5 seconds. Turn cumin and oregano onto a plate to cool, then grind or pound in a pestle until powdered.
Sauté onions in oil in a skillet over medium heat for 7 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, 1½ teaspoons salt, the cumin-oregano mixture, paprika, and chipotle and ancho chili powders. Lower heat and cook until onions are soft, another 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and juice, reconstituted peppers, and cilantro. Simmer 15 minutes, then add this mixture to the beans.
Continue cooking until beans are completely soft, about 30 minutes altogether, making sure water level stays at least 1 inch above beans. Add soaking water as needed to maintain adequate water level. Taste and add salt, if needed.
Serve with grated sharp Cheddar, sour cream, and add a dash of sherry or red wine vinegar to each bowl.

Adapted from All-Bean Chili, Deborah Madison, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.